Лондонская неделя моды вернется в 2023 году

Elevated evening glam

David Koma serves again — against a blood red backdrop overlooking London’s sharp skyline. Fusing masculine influences with high-octane glamor native to 1930s’ vaudeville, Koma’s new season sees pieces fully charged with sexual energy, featuring asymmetric silhouettes, crystal-encrusted knitwear, fluffy mohair halter-neck mini dresses, and gowns embroidered with ombré sequins that cascade from transparent to opaque.

Christopher Kane’s fall collection takes an unexpected turn with inspiration coming from the working class environment that he grew up in — latex skirts and dresses with peplum hems, prints of layers upon layers of baby chicks and pink piglets — “Housewives, cleaners, barmaids all play a significant role.” The result? An unassuming but highly wearable and elevated line of wardrobe must-haves for the fall.

Looks from Christopher Kane (left) and David Koma (center and right) AW23 collections

Christopher Kane, David Koma

David Koma: Killer accessories

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT

Has any inanimate object been quite as aestheticized as a cigarette? They’re objectively bad for you. And yet, this inherent danger seems only to add to their mystique and glamorous Old Hollywood appeal. Just ask David Koma, who tapped jewellery designer Emily Frances Barrett to create bedazzled cigarettes as hand-held accessories. “The image of a smoking actress has always fascinated me, and in the ’30s it was considered vulgar,” Koma told WWD. This air of provocative femininity seeped through the presentation. Walking down an electric red runway, models’ ensembles were accentuated with leather rosettes, opulent opera gloves and bejewelled accessories. Traditional menswear pieces like suit jackets were cropped and worn sans undershirts or pants. Statement coats, flashy thigh-high boots and fur-lined dresses seemed to confidently say, “I don’t care what you think.” And nothing communicates this irreverence quite like a cigarette covered in crystals.

London Fashion Week 2023: More Than Just a Glamorous Event

London Fashion Week is more than just a glamorous event. It’s a showcase of innovation and creativity in the world of fashion. Over the years, LFW has played a pivotal role in launching the careers of iconic designers. And as it continues to evolve, it remains a global fashion powerhouse, inspiring and influencing the industry worldwide. 

Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast or not, LFW is a must-watch event that celebrates the ever-evolving world of fashion. But what we’ve shown on this page isn’t all that was showcased. If you’d like to see more, visit London Fashion Week’s official website and sate your style buds.

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S.S. Daley: Ian McKellen takes to the sea

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT

Lord of the Rings fans, rejoice. Before the S.S. Daley runway show began on February 19, legendary actor Sir Ian McKellen (a.k.a. Gandalf) took the stage to once again wrap audiences in a blanket of whimsical lore. Wearing a sailor hat, a striped tie and a navy peacoat, McKellen recited the poem “The Coming of Arthur” by Alfred, Lord Tennyson — detailing a foreboding stormy sea — in a commanding voice that set the tone for the turbulent theme to follow. In front of a wall that pictured a moving body of water, models donned tattered knits, loose-hanging seams and unbuttoned dress shirts. All in all, it mused the image of being lost at sea. But thanks to sensual designs like a naked body motif and a pantless ensemble, the collection also presented the possibility for exploration.

Notable Runway Collection at the London Fashion Week 2023

Now, feast you eyes on  some of the gorgeous collections that rocked the runway of LFW23:

AADNEVIK

AADNEVIK is a luxury London-based brand founded in 2013 by the designer duo Hila Aadnevik and Kristian Aadnevik.

The brand is renowned for its powerful feminine designs detailed with refined craftsmanship and this was on display at London Fashion Week 2023.

Banshee of Savile Row

This gorgeous tailoring brand made its debut at London Fashion Week. 

Known for their rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic, you could tell from their collection that they brought it in full display at LFW SS24.

Aaron Esh

LVMH Prize finalist Aaron Esh showed its collection at London Fashion Week. The rising ready-to-wear label delivered one of the best showcases of this year’s schedule.

Taking to the runway to unveil its debut womenswear collection alongside a show of beautiful new menswear. The collection featured pieces cut from different clothes, embodying British adolescence in a sleek and sexy manner.

Bav Tailor

Bav Tailor’s collection is all about holistic luxury. This soulful clothing and monochromatic silhouette seeks to enhance sacred spaces.

The brand has continued to pay tribute to its mantra of ”respect your body+ your sphere” and this was on display during the London Fashion Week SS24 show.

C Jean

You can’t expect anything less from an alumna of the University of Arts, London – London College of Fashion’s Womenswear Fashion Design and Technology Master’s program. 

Chun Yuan Jean’s collection has been recognized by many fashion designers all over the world. And this year,  the brand’s black ensembles from gowns to jumpsuits are a stylish, yet chic look that many fashion lovers will want to rock.

David Koma

David Koma is popular for his ultra-body contouring silhouette from his collections. 

His sculptural statement dresses was on full display during  London Fashion Week 2023. Inspired by young Elizabeth II, the David Koma SS24 collection indulged in a stark contrast of racing attire and romanticism. 

ALSO READ: Uyo Fashion Week 2023: A Rundown of the Glitz, Glamour, & Creativity at the Event

Eftychia

Eftychia collection was nothing short of gorgeous. 

From the way, the models strutted down the runway, rocking beautiful silky dresses and monochromatic buttoned jackets and skirts, you’d agree Eftychia came prepared to slay at LFW SS24 show.

Fanfare Label

This fashion brand is popular for championing sustainability, with unique recycled collections that tackle the negative impact of fashion. 

Since launching, the label has showcased virtually at London Fashion Week. Its collections at LFW are a testament to how the brand has evolved with time to create fashionable pieces.

ALSO READ: Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS24: Everything You Missed

Bleeding femininity

Dilara Findikoglu’s show during London Fashion Week was one of the hottest ticket to score. With A-list clients like Bella Hadid and Lorde under her belt, the Turkish-British designer’s new AW23 collection cements her position as a true creative in fashion. Appropriately named Not A Man’s Territory, the fall line sees designs that dance between barely-there, lingerie-inspired outfits and armour-like dresses embellished with dining knives and hair clips — all with a vulnerability that’s powerfully feminine.

Di Petsa, the Greek-born designer known for her “wet dresses”, has debuted at London Fashion Week like no other — an emotional dance/ritual performed by the designer herself completed with the sound of her own voices and breaths, alongside a stunning runway show where a model walked down with burning sage.

Looks from Dilara Findikoglu (left) and Di Petsa (right) AW23 collections

Dilara Findikoglu, Di Petsa

Тренч — вечная верхняя одежда

Это верхняя одежда par excellence, (по крайней мере) тренч не может отсутствовать в гардеробе женщины. И вот он, как обычно, становится главным героем новой коллекции JW Anderson осень-зима 2023-2024: непочтительный британский дизайнер переосмысливает его с помощью широкого кожаного лоскута, который возвышается над самим тренчем на уровне плеч. Посадка свободная, поэтому лучше на размер больше, чем на размер меньше. Ведь кто сказал, что женщина всегда должна носить обтягивающую одежду? Ура, тренч можно ощутить (также) как объятие.

Разумеется, мы не вправе дискредитировать облегающие модели. Но каждый выбирает свой стиль. И в этой связи мы предлагаем серый тренч с высоким вырезом и поясом, который представил на подиуме китайский дизайнер Хуишань Чжан, креативный директор своего одноименного дома моды. На подиуме с белыми ботинками и черными брюками: идея, конечно, очень правильная, но поэтическая лицензия не помешает. Да, давайте попробуем это сделать и с джинсами и белыми кроссовками!

Открытое нижнее белье, 5 идей, как носить его с умом

Dilara Fındıkoğlu: Dressing for revenge

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT

At an echoey chapel in East London, models sauntered solemnly past seated guests to a soundtrack of water dripping slowly from a tap. Entitled “Not a Man’s Territory,” Turkish designer Dilara Fındıkoğlu’s show explored bodily autonomy with restrictive accents like spiked chokers, boned corsets and safety pin-punctured nails. Inspired by gender power dynamics and weighted by the recent devastating earthquakes in Turkey and Syria, the tension of the event could be cut with a knife. Fittingly, the collection’s final statement was a dress covered entirely in vintage-looking butter knives. Reportedly based on the concept of Joan of Arc’s reincarnation after having been burned at the stake, the shielded frock gave a whole new meaning to clothing as a type of armour — and a weapon.

Details About London Fashion Week

Here is a list of a few important details that one certainly needs to keep in mind when planning to head to London Fashion Week.

Dates For The LFW Private Event

Find below the starting and ending London Fashion Week dates:Start Date- 14th February, TuesdayEnd Date- 18th February, Tuesday

Dates And Timings For The LFW Public Show

14th February, Saturday | 9AM to 10 PM14th February, Saturday | 11 AM to 1 PM14th February, Saturday | 3 PM to 5 PM14th February, Saturday | 6 PM to 8 PM15th February, Sunday | 10:30 AM to 12:30 PM15th February, Sunday | 1 PM to 3 PM15th February, Sunday | 3:30 PM to 5:30 PM15th February, Sunday | 6 PM to 8 PM

Tickets Cost

London Fashion Week tickets have two options of the seat for the general public- Standard and Front Row

StandardCost: £135 or INR 11,300Inclusions: Access to catwalk show | Access to BFC Positive Fashion Exhibition & Talk | Complimentary Drink & LFW tote bag

Front RowCost: £245 or INR 20, 500Inclusions: Access to catwalk show- front row seat and VIP lounge | Access to BFC Positive Fashion Exhibition & Talk (reserved seat at the front of the room) | Complimentary Drink & LFW tote bag with goodies

Upcycled and sustainably timeless

Taking inspirations from the world’s obsession with AI technologies, Romanian designer Ancuca Sarca presents a collection that celebrates the brand’s key styles through a retro-futuristic lens. Sarca introduces partnership with Lee to deliver two form-fitting looks out of deadstock denim: bralettes, detachable sleeves and a deadstock faux shearling trim. This season has also seen denim being applied, for the first time, to backless pumps and clogs from repurposed denim jackets. With an unwavering commitment to upcycling and sustainability, whether through the use of vintage quilted nylon jackets on boots that were designed to withstand alpine temperatures, or pointed-toe heels decorated with end-of-roll faux furs, Sarca’s sports-meet-vintage designs are set to trend continuously this fall.

Designs from Ancuta Sarca’s AW23 collection

Ancuta Sarca

LFW 2022: Designers to Watch

POSTER GIRL

London Fashion Week 2023 will be POSTER GIRL’s second. 

You might recognise their form-fitting, cut-out dresses from the Instagram feeds of Dua Lipa, Kylie Jenner, and Selena Gomez, to name a few – it’s safe to say that the brand has built up a cult following.

Between them, co-founders Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville have cut their teeth at the likes of BVLGARI, Dior, and Vivienne Westwood… but POSTER GIRL looks set to debut some of their most innovative pieces yet.

Stephen Jones Millinery

Making his name on the London fashion scene way back in the seventies and the beginnings of street style, Jones has since become an icon of the millinery world. 

His hats, made at his boutique Georgian townhouse-cum-workshop are sought after from the highest levels of fashionista stardom. 

They’ve even found their way into the halls of the V&A, the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Louvre. Even if you can’t get your hands on one, you’ll want to keep an eye on SJ’s hats. 

Yuhan Wang

Yuhan Wang SS22 Backstage (Eeva Rinne, British Fashion Council)

Known for her womenswear pieces that champion femininity through romantic nostalgia (think gothic florals, creamy lace, and waist-nipping tailoring), London-based Yuhan Wang is a designer to look out for over the next few years.

How To Reach London Fashion Week

Being one of the most appealing and popular destinations amongst the traveling crowds, the fashion capital of the United Kingdom is not at all difficult to reach. One can make it to the event without any hassles. The largest city of England, London is extremely well-connected with the rest of the major parts of the world. Housing an international airport namely London Heathrow Airport, airways are the fastest mode of travel to reach London.

By Air

London is home to 5 airports out of which three important ones include Heathrow, Gatwick, and Stansted. The most important airport that connects London city with the major cities worldwide is London Heathrow Airport. Over a hundred international flights fly to and from this airport to various corners of the world. London is directly connected with the major cities of India. Direct flights flying from India to London are Air India, Jet Airways, British Airways, and Virgin Atlantic.

By Train

If one is traveling from neighboring cities such as Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels, Berlin, and others in Europe, London offers train services that are linked well with the surrounding cities. London is a hub of the British Rail Network which makes traveling to London much easier and convenient. One can make use of private or public vehicles and cover the pending distance by road without any hassles.

By Road

Offering an excellent and extremely beautiful road network, London is linked to other cities of the country well enough. With paths passing through the villages, traveling by road to London allow travelers to witness the beauty of English countrysides. London also offers bus services that connect the city with domestic and international destinations both. For tourists traveling on a budget, opting for bus proves to be the best option.

Further Read: Monsoon In London: A Guide To Explore This Beautiful City While It Rains!

Soft coloring and textures

Romance is still trending, according to Susan Fang and Bora Aksu.

Fang, known for her ethereal styles and intricate, structured dresses made of ombré-colored fabric rosettes, put on a show that’s delightful to all senses. The beautifully constructed (and considerably more expansive compared to last season) collection is presented on models walking on a bed of dried rose petals, with floral-scented mist sprayed into the air via devices custom made by Fang’s father’s factory in China. Incorporating past-season’s leftover materials and utilizing 3D printing technology, Fang keeps pushing sustainable creativity whilst maintaining the brand’s signature aesthetics.

Bora Aksu takes a turn for the darker and more mysterious with the new season, and displays a collection that’s fresh, romantic, and whimsical — all with a childlike joyfulness weaved throughout. Enhancing his demi-couture craftsmanship, Aksu uses delicate embroidery and playful motifs to compliment the clean structuring and playful nature of his taffeta dresses and deliver the brand’s unique take on romance.

Looks from Susan Fang (left) and Bora Aksu (center and right) AW23 collections

Susan Fang and Bora Aksu

Mould-breaking, city-inspired designs

Love her or hate her (designs), Mowalola is a designer/brand that you simply can’t ignore. Breaking Instagram as one of the most viewed shows during London Fashion Week — the show took place off-schedule at the basement of University of Westminster — even Snoop Dogg can’t resist posting a reel about it. Complementing the Marmite-esque, reimagined super-low-hung pants and the New York City-inspired styles are out-of-this-world face and body art created by celebrity makeup genius Isamaya Ffrench.

Ffrench, known for her audacious and innovative take on beauty and makeup, creates a mix of fake freckles all over the face, combined with LED-lights strategically placed on models’ faces and bodies to drive home the theme “Dark Web” as envisioned by Mowalola.

Looks from Mowalola AW23 collection, with makeup and body art designed by Isamaya Ffrench

Mowalola

JW Anderson, on the other hand, pays homage to the contemporary dancer Michael Clark, whose work often intersects with fashion. For the AW23 collection, Anderson makes heavy reference to modern city living by reimagining styles from archives of both Clark’s and his own, including a dress prominently displaying Tesco logo and form-fitting pullovers with thought-provoking messages.

MORE FROMFORBES ADVISOR

Looks from JW Anderson’s AW23 collection

JW Anderson

Return of the tailored sophistication

Her first season on schedule showing both accessories and ready to wear looks, Naza Yuzefi believes that the fashion industry is seeing a resurgence of understated luxury and refinement. Having founded her namesake brand in 2015, Yuzefi’s new season exudes an air of early fall that’s crisp, clean, as well as softly comforting. “Consumers are looking for pieces that are not only elegant, but also comfortable, and this trend is reflected in the use of muted colors and elevated denim.” Says of Yuzefi of her latest collection. “The combination of these elements creates an elevated ease and understated elegance that is perfect for the season.” The everyday pieces displayed during the show feature the brand’s signature, streamlined tailoring, with a notably gentle color palette including powder pink, earthy nude tones and dark grey — the last of which is used on the brand’s debut line of denim styles.

Palmer Harding’s collection for AW23 is inspired by the analogy of a seed planted, growing, transforming and eventually blossoming into its fully developed beauty — with layered fabrics carefully designed and tailored to resemble a flower in full bloom.

Looks from Yuzefi (left and center) and Palmer Harding (right) AW23 collections

Yuzefi, Palmer Harding

TOVE makes its runway debut this season at Senate House in London, with a line featuring sculptural forms and decadent textures that are balanced against refined, structured silhouettes, with hand-forged jewelry in collaboration with Completedworks — a designer jewelry label known for its contemporary aesthetics with high-end craftsmanship. Completedworks also showcased its new fall 2023 collection of designs during London Fashion Week, fusing historic references with modern styles.

Eudon Choi, on the other hand, continues to cultivate timeless staples that also feature elements of modern, luxe sportswear. Confident femininity is defined by Choi with relaxed shoulders and oversized, menswear-like silhouettes.

Looks from Eudon Choi (left) and TOVE (center and right) AW23 collections

Eudon Choi, TOVE

Burberry: Daniel Lee’s debut

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT

Since the shocking announcement that Daniel Lee would be taking over as Burberry’s creative director in September 2022, anticipation for the British brand’s latest reinvention has been building. Following his transformative tenure at Bottega Veneta — where he introduced the coveted Bottega green shade — Lee went back to the heritage brand’s roots with a Fall 2023 collection that modernized Burberry’s signature check. In a dimly lit venue, many models wore tartan motifs in regal tones like forest green, deep red, mustard yellow and royal blue. With blanket trenches, faux fur coats, hot water bottles as accessories, and even a duck hat, the collection was an ode to British cold-weather dressing with a hint of Gen Z playfulness and a recognizable Daniel Lee twist. It’s even led some to wonder: Are we headed for an era of Burberry blue?

Sinéad O’Dwyer: This is what inclusivity looks like

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT

The industry standard of exclusivity means that many people — namely those who are wheelchair users, plus-size, or gender non-conforming — feel like fashion isn’t for them. But thanks to designers like Sinéad O’Dwyer, this stuffy narrative is being rewritten. Case in point: at her Fall 2023 show, a pregnant model graced the runway in a cut-out-filled catsuit that celebrated the changing of the body instead of trying to hide it. Similarly, throughout the presentation, models of different skin colours, sizes and abilities donned fishnet textiles, body-con silhouettes and neon hues. By now, it’s expected that O’Dwyer’s shows will offer daring fashion for everyone, not just those who fit the traditional mould of a model. And with this Fall 2023 show, the designer has proven yet again that representation should never be up for discussion. It should be a given.

London Fashion Week 2023: Top Events

Paul Costelloe

Friday 17th

Womenswear

LFW September 2020 – Paul Costelloe

 pioneer of London Fashion Week and a true icon, Paul Costelloe returns for his 38th year of LFW with an exciting womenswear presentation for 2023.

Costelloe began his illustrious career working at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, and honed his craft when he was surrounded by the designers Emanuel Ungaro and Pierre Cardin during his time in the French capital.

The brand now creates a huge range of collections, from womenswear and menswear to bags and homeware. 

Paul’s Spring/Summer 22 womenswear collection focused on boxy shapes and classic tailoring, so who knows exactly what Paul’s got up his (very fashionable) sleeve for AW23.

Invitation Only

Molly Goddard

Saturday 19th

Womenswear

LFW AW21 Molly Goddard

No London Fashion Week timetable is complete without a show from the iconic Molly Goddard. 

Known for her unashamedly eclectic designs boasting garish florals, tulle skirts, and bold use of colours – her Spring/Summer 22 collection was particularly luminous – seats at Molly’s shows are highly sought after.

Invitation Only 

JW Anderson

Sunday 19th

Women and menswear

A big event in the Fashion Week calendar is always the JW Anderson show. The Northern Irish designer’s signature blend of chic and high-street regularly pushes the boundaries. 

Never was that truer than the time he hosted a catwalk show in between sets of blinking slot machines and arcade games. 

If you’re looking for boundary-pushing catwalk shows and clothing that will inform the market, you’d better get pulling strings for an invite to this. 

Invitation only 

Atelier Zuhra Catwalk

Saturday 18th 

Womenswear

Queen of the dressmaking world, the items that come out of Atelier Zuhara are regularly some of the coolest things to be seen at fashion shows. 

They push boundaries without going so avant garde they wouldn’t be able to work anywhere outside a very niche catwalk show. The designs often incorporate very stylish patterns and textures to achieve their luxe finish. 

The Atelier Zuhara Catwalk show is open to attendance for anyone, so you can go get a taste of these wonderful dresses if you think it’s your kind of thing. 

Eudon Choi

Saturday 18th 

Womenswear

Korean born and trained menswear designer Eudon Choi regularly shocks with his innovative shows of cutting edge fashion. 

The clothes are sleek, and not as over-the-top as some of the items you’ll find on the catwalks of London fashion week, and that’s why we love them. There’s nothing as stylish as the understated afterall. 

His show is a regular reason for excitement at London fashion week, and is therefore invitation only. 

Invitation only

AADNEVIK Catwalk Show

Sunday 19th

Womenswear

Designer pair Hila and Kristian Aadnevik launched AADNEVIK in 2013, bringing luxury occasionwear and intricately designed pieces to London. Their designs ooze femininity through luxe embellishments, soft layering, and romantic silhouettes.

They champion the concept of blending ready-to-wear with couture. Both designers and their styles contrast each other, with light and dark concepts working together harmoniously. 

Simone Rocha: Hay now

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT

Known for her ornate craftsmanship and billowy dresses, Simone Rocha gave her signature aesthetic a subversive spin with the addition of raffia. The hay-reminiscent material was nestled between tulle and used in place of a handbag, juxtaposing the extravagance of ballgown silhouettes. The dried grass detailing takes inspiration from the Celtic harvest festival Lughnasa, in which communities come together to celebrate the summer’s bounty. This ode to her Irish roots was also apt for her second show incorporating menswear. “I started looking into the rituals of relationships, because I wanted to continue to show women and men together: how they correspond,” she told Vogue. As such, facial bows, skirts, and lush beaded collars were all presented as refreshingly gender neutral. Going forward, could hay be the next viral genderless trend?

London Fashion Week: A Platform for Emerging Talents

The British Fashion Council has continued to reinforce its support of young designers pursuing a career in fashion by developing several schemes for emerging talent as part of London Fashion Week. One of them is the Designers Showrooms event supported by the European Regional Development Fund and the Department for International Trade. The British Fashion Council uses this initiative to reinforce its commitment to supporting business growth opportunities for emerging British designers. This initiative highlights the strengths and depths of London’s fashion community. 

The event provides a launching pad for young designers to gain exposure, secure funding, and make connections in the industry. Furthermore, this commitment to fostering new talent has kept LFW at the forefront of fashion innovation.

Facts About London Fashion Week

• Organized by the British Fashion Council and the London Development Agency in association with The Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy, the first-ever London Fashion Week event was held in October 1983.
• Big brands like Mercedes, Nivea, Toni&Guy, The May Fair, and many more sponsors and fund this mega event of the fashion industry.
• LFW earned its place on the list of hottest fashion weeks right next to Milan, New York, and Paris soon after Margret Thatcher attended the show in 1986.
• In order to make sure that fashion enthusiasts get their hands on the original contemporary designs that walk through the ramp, the British Fashion Council now owns a fashion store that preserves the latest outfits and accessories.
• The private event of the industry is attended by more than 5,000 press and buyers that will be followed by shows officially hosted for the general public on particular dates.

Suggested Read: Historical Tours In London: An Encounter With The History And Culture Of This British City!